Toyota 2GR-FE Timing Chain Marks 3.5L

[Lewis]

The following thread will explain how we set up the Toyota 2GR-FE Timing Chain marks after re-installing the heads or performing engine work.

The first tip is that you can use Toyota's Technical Tip Bulletin 0012-10

Also we need to know which Bank is #1 and which Bank is #2. Here is a reference...

Make sure that the engine is set to TDC...

There are three timing chains on these 2GR engines. The first two are for the exhaust/intake camshaft timing and will be set up on the cam tower. The last chain is the main cam/crank timing chain and is set up after you have installed and sealed the cam tower assembly to the head.

Let's start with the Bank 1 (closest to the firewall) cams (tower not assembled) and still off the head. You will need to make sure that this chain is lined up on their marks like so...

and now for a close up view of each one...

Once you have the chain installed like this, you can now slide this assembly onto the cams while making sure that the cam pegs seat correctly into the cam indentation.


Now let's look at Bank 2 (closest to the radiator) cams (tower not assembled) and still off the head. You will need to make sure that this chain is lined up on their marks like so...

and now for a close up view of each one...

Once you have the chain installed like this, you can now slide this assembly onto the cams while making sure that the cam pegs seat correctly into the cam indentation.

Now that you have both Bank 1 and Bank 2 Cam/Chain assemblies put together and the cam towers sealed/installed onto the head, it's time to install the last timing chain.

If you look closely at the exhaust cam gears, you will see a flat spot on the side. This makes it easier to install the main timing chain with a little extra room.

For this step we will use the previous marks (noted above) and some new marks on this last chain which will match up to the intake cam gears.

Again, let's start with the Bank 1 (closest to the firewall)...

Now lets get a closer view and point out the marks....

Now, let's see Bank 2 (closest to the radiator)...

Now lets get a closer view and point out the marks....

and last but not least, the crankshaft timing marks...

Well that about wraps this one up. This post was just designed to show you how we did this job lining up the three timing chain marks. Please consult a Toyota Dealer and/or the Toyota repair website www.techinfo.toyota.com for more information.

 

[nonsub]

Thanks for this thread!

Rumor has it that it IS possible to perform this work without dropping the engine if one is highly skilled and good with the small spaces/tight angles. Can you confirm that?

 

[Lewis]

Thanks for this thread!

Rumor has it that it IS possible to perform this work without dropping the engine if one is highly skilled and good with the small spaces/tight angles. Can you confirm that?

Yes, I have seen it done like this but most techs just drop the engine/trans assembly.

 

[nonsub]

Hi Lewis. Thanks. It seems to me that the labor would be about 6-8 hours this way and close to triple that by dropping the engine? The TSB itself calls for something like 16hrs. It must be really hard to do it this way otherwise why spend the time dropping the engine?

 

[broken]

Hello again. Was going to post a new thread but I have no perms to post in any forum... is that normal or did I do something wrong?

Anyhow these are related so I will ask in this thread:

Popped the covers and the intake gears seem fine but both exhausts are shot.

Thoughts appreciated:


a) Are the current part numbers for the exhaust gears, intake gears, camshafts and housing sub-assembly actually of a different design or spec than earlier versions? My guess is that the intake and exhaust gears are but not the other parts?

b) Since doing this engine in place it is not practical to remove and re-seal the sub-assemblies. Is there any reason not to to swap the new part numbers (from 2011 donor) ... intake gears, exhaust gears and camshafts into the EXISTING sub-assembly if there is no damage (visible anyway?) The newest sub-assembly part numbers and the ones in TSB are
11104-0P011 (the existing one would be 11104-0P010?)
11103-0P014 (the existing one would be 11103-0P011, 11103-0P012, 11103-0P013?)

c) Strictly a business decision for why the similar problem on 2GR-FSE variant (ie. Lex IS/GS 350) is a recall whereas RAV4, RX350 ex. are only warranty TSBs?

d) Is a 2GR-FE a 2GR-FE.... what would difference be say from a 2011 Sienna and a 2008 RX350 for full swap purposes?


Thanks!

 

[Lewis]

Was going to post a new thread but I have no perms to post in any forum... is that normal or did I do something wrong?
This is normal for this Forum. Threads are controlled by Admin and for Mods only to start.

Are the current part numbers for the exhaust gears, intake gears, camshafts and housing sub-assembly actually of a different design or spec than earlier versions?
Yes, there was a change in design and part numbers due to problems with rattle noise and the gears coming apart. I'm not exactly sure if ALL the parts are different but the cams, cam cradle are for sure. We actually had to perform this TSB 0094-09 and the customer changed his/her mind half way through the repair and we changed only the one side (that was bad) with the updated parts. It did work.

Strictly a business decision for why the similar problem on 2GR-FSE variant (ie. Lex IS/GS 350) is a recall whereas RAV4, RX350 ex. are only warranty TSBs?
I would say to save money.

Is a 2GR-FE a 2GR-FE.... what would difference be say from a 2011 Sienna and a 2008 RX350 for full swap purposes?
I'm not totally sure but if you are working with a salvage yard with interchange numbers then they would be a better source to ask.

 

[broken2]

Thanks again! By cam cradle I'm sure you mean the cam housing sub assembly. We (myself and friend who are doing the work on my car) are counting on there not being an actual difference in this part and being able to drop the donor cams and gears into it without the newer PN housing sub assemblies. Fingers crossed.